Review of: Beerpongtisch

Reviewed by:
On 11.08.2020
Last modified:11.08.2020


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This customized full graphic table will bring the "wow" factor to rival the fireworks. Have a blog or interested in partnerships?

Let us know at at info ledbeerpongtables. Excellent presentation, you don't really see anything like this very often. It goes right by the window so customers can see it as they pass.

The music mode is fantastic! My backyard has speakers in the bushes so this goes right next to those and it goes with the sound! Also is interesting when there is no music as well as it flashes whenever anything touches it.

Trips people out. Then drill out the connector hole first followed by the 2mm pilot hole. Now you're ready to connect them up!

In this step, I will show you how to use a crimping tool for the various connectors on the Master PCB. Although it is more expensive than some other crimpers, I would definitely recommend it as I have used some other cheaper ones and they don't do as nice of a job when crimping or crimp as wide of a variety of connectors as this one does.

As with most of this Instructable, follow the photos above to get a good understanding of the process. Not a big deal, just follow the instructions above as the instructions are the same for that type of connector.

Use the diagram in the photos and connect up each lead on the sensor to its respective wire. You will have to do this for both the entry and the exit sensor.

Once you have wires connected up to each sensor, align the eight CAT5 wires in the correct order and crimp an RJ45 connector on to them.

Repeat the same process to make the sensor assembly for the second ball washer. As you will see with lots of parts in this Instructable, I tend to use CAT5 wire for longer wire runs as it is very common and cheap to purchase.

Just strip away the outer PVC sheath to expose the four pairs of wires inside. The ball washers air baths are quite easy to install.

I have made custom laser cut motor mounts and sensor brackets that are included in every kit sold, but if you need to make your own you can use the part template located in the main zip file or simply modify a few blocks of wood with a drill and a jigsaw Or just glue the sensor in place where the hole is.

Just don't poke it too far into the pipe where it will obstruct the ball. The propellers for the ball washers come in a 75mm length which is too big to fit inside of the pipe.

Take some snips and cut off the tip on each end of the propeller, ensuring that it can spin inside of the pipe. If the propeller cannot spin and you activate the ball washer, it will damage the transistor too much current that is driving the motor and may render the ball washer inoperable until that part is replaced on the Master PCB.

If you just use 38mm ping pong balls, they will fall through just fine. I use a Dremel High Speed Cutter in my rotary tool to shave off the excess plastic in the coupler.

The photos above provide a pretty straightforward demonstration in regards to installing the ball washers. There are 3 things to look out for when assembling the ballwashers:.

And that's it! We're almost ready to plug everything into the Master PCB and test it all out! Beware that the holes in the acrylic sheet are only 50mm in diameter whereas the holes on the table are 58mm due to the lip of the couplers.

I have tested 3 sheets of varying translucency, one being clear, one being slightly frosted and the last one being heavily diffused. Each sheet worked fine, with my favorite being the most diffused one as it provides a really cool effect on the table.

The more diffused the sheet, the more prone it is to false detections because more of the IR light reflects back into the sensors. That being said, out of all 3 sheets that I used, none were causing any false detections on the table.

Next, align the acrylic sheet over top of the table lid and ensure that it is flush to the table on all 4 sides. Then measure Seeing as the rail underneath is To secure the table to the base, we use five 2.

Don't add the 2. Just secure the acrylic sheet to the lid of the table for now as we need access to the inside of the table.

As for the ball washer entry and exit points, there are two options. The quickest option is to leave the ABS pipe in the entry and exit holes flush with the acrylic sheet.

Just add silicone inside of the gap between the pipe and the acrylic sheet to waterproof it and it's done. You then increase the length of the ABS pipe for the entry and exit couplers so that it sticks up above the acrylic sheet and you can insert the cured silicone mound over top of the extended pieces of pipe.

Make sure to waterproof the tiny gap between the ABS pipe and the acrylic sheet too. You can also 3D print a mold if you have access to a 3D printer.

There are photos of both options. The first thing that we will connect up to the Master PCB, even before the power, is the infrared receiver.

I have set up the BPT X5 table to use a bootloader Bully Bootloader so that code can be programmed into the microcontroller wirelessly from a PC with a bluetooth connection.

The only catch is that the IR receiver is the hardware that activates the bootloader or tells it to go to the main code.

If you don't have the infrared receiver plugged into the PCB, you don't know if the microcontroller will read a low or a high signal on startup. If it reads a high signal, it will go into the main code.

A low signal, it will go into the bootloader and continuously loop until code is loaded into it or the PCB is reset. Once the receiver is plugged into the board, it will only read a low if somebody is pointing the remote at it and pressing a button in the first second that the table boots up which is how you activate the bootloader mode.

I ran the power supply PSU line up one of the folding legs and into the table making sure that the leg could still fold. I then sealed up the entry point with some silicone and routed the rest of the cable to the same compartment with the Master PCB in it and secured it to the base of the table so that it wasn't able to shake free.

Place the Master PCB as close to the center of the support as possible. There are 3 holes in the PCB that you can place screws into in order to secure it to the table.

Make sure that the screws are snug, but not so tight that it cracks the PCB. The 3rd photo shows the layout of the RGB pods on the table. It's clear sailing now!

Congratulations on getting as far as you have gotten. Let's finish connecting up the remaining parts of the table and then we can finally get to the software side of things and testing it out!

This is a pretty basic step here. Connect up the LED grid with the 50P wiring harness and you're ready to go!

To turn it on, just walk up to the LCD display, reach underneath it and press the button to turn the table on or off. Fully Assembled Kit This step is already done for you.

The RGB underlighting assembly no longer ships soldered together. Many customers who purchased the fully assembled kit have told me that the RGB underlighting parts were faulty upon arrival or needed solder touch-ups to work properly.

I looked into this and found out that this was happening because the whole assembly was being folded together to fit in the kit before being shipped out and then unfolded and fitted to the table by the customer.

The soldered connections and T-Shape connectors can't handle this and were breaking. Now, all of the parts are shipped together with pre-made connectors and the 24 solder joints should only be completed when it is ready to be installed in the table.

Note: This is all for general knowledge. You do not need to know or understand any of this to get a beer pong table working. You simply can use the standard code from the zip file in step 1.

Fully assembled kits come pre-programmed and are ready to operate out of the box. They are programmed with the latest firmware at the time of shipment they are fully tested before shipping.

Now that we have finished all of the construction, we can begin learning how everything works! This is where it gets really fun as there are so many animations and effects that one can make with this table.

Before we move on to making our own animations, it is beneficial to learn how data is sent amongst the different chips, how the interrupt routines have been set up, certain time constraints, etc.

There is a fair share of source code to sift through, whether its code for controlling the RGB pods, running animations on the grid or controlling the ball washers.

In every C file I have ordered all of the functions alphabetically so that one can find the piece of code that they need quicker. As stated in earlier steps, all of the source code and documentation files are located in the downloadable zip file in step 1.

Now, it's time to step through each function of the table one by one, completely understanding one feature before moving on to the next.

It is the same thing that we just did in the last 35 steps with construction, only this time we are doing it with software.

To keep the length of this Instructable shorter, I will only be touching on the core software features for this beer pong table.

If you wish to learn about the interrupt time delays or how the IR sensors on the pods work, please refer back to step 48, step 54, step 55 and step 56 in the previous Instructable.

Exception during serial port read: The operation has timed out. Unable to connect to device, giving up. This means one of two things.

Double check that you are paired with the bluetooth module properly and that you have the "OpenCom" checkbox activated.

Normally the bluetooth modules red LED will go completely solid when it has a stable connection, but you will see in the video that it still blinks.

This is because I was using an HC bluetooth module at the time of the video and not an HC module. The LCD will then perform a countdown indicating when it will reset.

Once it hits the end of the countdown, just hold one of the buttons on the remote, point it at the IR receiver and the Master PCB will restart in bootloader mode.

The infrared remote control button functions are detailed in the next step. The trade-off is that we need to use more resources on the microcontroller to maintain a constant refresh rate on the grid or else we will get flickering across the display.

On top of that, we now use a different chip to control the RGB pods which refreshes itself, meaning that it frees up more resources on the MCU. The MCU does use a few serial-parallel logic chips to compensate for the larger number of outputs needed to drive a LED grid with a maximum size of 32x16 pixels.

To reduce the total number of outputs needed, we use a technique called ' multiplexing ' to control a maximum of LEDs with only 48 outputs.

Listed below are some of the functions that are used to control the LED grid. If 'state' is equal to 1, the LED that the pixel represents will be turned on, if state is equal to 0, the LED will be turned off.

In photo 3 we modify the LED grid data to turn on 3 pixels on the grid. If not, you would have to clear the old LED grid data from the grid, then write these pixels.

If the grid is updated after calling this then all of the LED pixels will turn on. If the grid is updated after calling this then all of the LED pixels will turn off.

The 3rd parameter will set the radius of the circle. Photo 5 shows an example for the following code:. The size of the rectangle is specified in pixels by sx and sy.

Photo 4 shows an example of how the rectangle is drawn a square can also be created with this function. Now lets check out the RGB pods!

Each chip is capable of providing up to 48 separate PWM channels, giving us a total of 96 channels to use. The first 60 channels are used for the 20 RGB pods and each pod uses 3 channels for its red, green and blue colors.

After those channels, I have dedicated the next 16 channels to the LED ring connectors, followed by the 4 motor channels, IR transmitter channel, 12 extra PWM drivers and the last 3 channels make up the red, green and blue channels for the underlighting.

There is no fading in this function, it will simply change the pod to whichever color you wish. This is nice if you quickly want to to set the pod to one of the default 10 colors.

This provides a nice smooth transition from the color that it is currently set at to the new color that you want it to be faded to.

The speed of the transition is controlled by adjusting 'delay'. The 21st pod isn't actually a pod, it is just the RGB underlighting for the bottom of the table and will set the color of the underlighting in the same way that you would set the color of the RGB pod.

One can create their own RGB struct or simply use one of the 10 default colors. An example is below. If you choose to use a default color defined in Globals.

Each channel supports bit PWM and can handle up to mA of current. I recommend keeping the current level less than mA as it may start to heat up at its maximum rating.

For the table in this Instructable, I only used 12 out of the 16 available channels and they make up the LED rings on the beer pong table.

They are updated in the same fashion that the RGB pods are, except for we only need to modify one channel for each LED ring, as opposed to three channels for each RGB pod.

Once the user calls this fade function, the interrupt routine will automatically update the LED ring one more fade step per interrupt until the ring has completely faded to the brightness level specified.

The 2nd parameter sets the duty cycle of the PWM channel. This function would be used to control the twelve extra PWM outputs, the IR transmitter output or any other channel for that matter.

Each 74HC multiplexer handles 8 inputs, giving us a total of 24 analog inputs. All of these analog inputs are used for the 20 sensors on the RGB pods and the 4 sensors for the ball washer entry and exit holes.

Normally, we would need to read each analog input one at a time for a total of 24 times to get each sensors analog reading.

So instead of having to read each input on each 74HC one at a time, we only have to read each input on all three 74HC's at once did that make sense?

We can either use this value later in the code or just simply discard it. The IR sensors are polled in the main loop and updated periodically.

The sensor readings are packed into a bit integer where a '1' means that a detection has been made and a '0' means that no object has been detected by the IR sensor.

The wiring is set up a little differently for this version of the beer pong table but it still has a good amount of info that I didn't address here in regards to controlling the 74HC There are four connections that must be made to the PCB to complete the ball washer.

The connections and their respective locations are in the diagram in photo 1 of this step. The ball washer IR sensors are connected to the 3rd 74HC multiplexer, meaning that every time we poll through all of the RGB pod sensors we actually get the readings for the ball washer sensors too.

We build it. Customize your table with your favorite, logo, pattern or any other crazy design you might think of. In addition to the snipers, the bounces, the behind-the-backs, we are proud to introduce the newest shot to the beer pong arsenal.

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Beerpongtisch · BRIEF DESCRIPTION: T his is a very interesting game product. The tools needed are ping-pong balls or plastic size of the ball is 40mm, and the size of the cup is generally 12cm*6cm* material is composed of PP or PVC, belonging to the environmental protection plastic product is popular around the world, people mainly use the ball's buoyancy and bounce to create. The Best Light Up Beer Pong Table! Light Up the Party Music LED Flashing Infinity Beer Pong Party Tables. Perfect for Epic Parties, Bars, & More. Order Now!5/5(42). Customizable Beer Pong Tables welcome you to the home page of their beer pong website. Visit us online to learn more. I recommend drilling out the ball washer holes on the lid prior to installing the hinge but it can be done either way. The UART menu just shows that all of the hardware is already in place for when the Www.Las Vegas.De comes to design an app. Those are Merrybet Beerpongtisch that I had used to complete this project. The motors that are in the BOM are the ones I used and work perfect for this application. The photos above explain the process to create your own silicone LED Bewertung Lottoland. Add to cart. It's clear sailing now! Stable production capacity,On-time delivery. Beerpongtisch people out. The 16x2 LCD display is used in Lottozahlen 25.9 19 with the key infrared remote. That's it for this Instructable! In fact, the only reason that I tried it was to see if I would be able to make a portable LED grid that I could ship with the kits. In photo 3 we modify the LED grid data to turn on 3 pixels on the grid.


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